Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= knitting direction | |
= increase for saddle shoulders | |
= increase for sleeves |
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= increase for yoke |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
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Knitted jumper for men in DROPS Alaska. The piece is worked top down, with double neck and saddle shoulders. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 219-16 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 78 stitches), and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 22) = 3.5. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 3rd and 4th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together alternately each 2nd and 3rd stitch and each 3rd and 4th stitch. INCREASE TIP: BEFORE MARKER: The new stitch twists to the right. Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round; pick up the back strand and knit in the front loop. AFTER MARKER: The new stitch twists to the left. Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round; pick up the front strand and knit in the back loop. DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. CASTING-OFF TIP: To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down from mid back. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down. NECK: Cast on 78-82-88-92-98-102 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and Alaska. Knit 1 round, then work rib (knit 1, purl 1) in the round for 14½ cm. Knit 1 round where you increase 22-22-32-32-34-38 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 100-104-120-124-132-140 stitches. Change to circular needle size 5 mm. YOKE: Insert a marker at the beginning of the round (= mid-back) – THE PIECE IS MEASURED FROM HERE! In addition, insert 4 new markers as described below – without working the stitches and inserting the markers between 2 stitches. Marker 1: Start mid-back, count 17-18-20-21-21-23 stitches (= ½ back piece), insert marker before the next stitch. Marker 2: Count 16-16-20-20-24-24 stitches from marker 1 (= shoulder), insert marker before the next stitch. Marker 3: Count 34-36-40-42-42-46 stitches from marker 2 (= front piece), insert marker before the next stitch. Marker 4: Count 16-16-20-20-24-24 stitches from marker 3 (= shoulder), insert marker before the next stitch. There are 17-18-20-21-21-23 stitches left on the back piece after marker 4. Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; they are used when increasing for the shoulders. INCREASES FOR SADDLE SHOULDERS: Work stocking stitch in the round. AT THE SAME TIME, on the first round, increase 4 stitches for the shoulders as follows: Increase BEFORE markers 1 and 3 and increase AFTER markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP. Here you are only increasing on the front and back pieces and the number of shoulder stitches remains the same. Increase like this every round a total of 14-16-16-18-20-22 times = 156-168-184-196-212-228 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! After the last increase the piece measures approx. 6-7-7-8-9-10 cm from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the sleeves as follows. INCREASES FOR SLEEVES: Work stocking stitch in the round. AT THE SAME TIME, on the next round, increase 4 stitches for the sleeves as follows: Increase AFTER markers 1 and 3 and increase BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – remember INCREASE TIP. Here you are only increasing on the shoulders and the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 11-13-13-15-12-12 times = 200-220-236-256-260-276 stitches. The piece should now measure 16-19-19-22-20-21 cm from the marker on the neck. In size S continue working until the piece measures 17 cm. If the length is shorter than the above in sizes M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL, continue to the correct length without further increases. Now increase for the yoke as described below. INCREASES FOR YOKE: Move the 4 markers so each marker sits in the outermost sleeve stitches on each side. There are 36-40-44-48-46-46 stitches between the marker-stitches on each sleeve. On the next round, increase 8 stitches for the yoke by increasing on both sides of all 4 marker-stitches – remember INCREASE TIP. Here you increase on the front and back pieces and on the sleeves; the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch. Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 4-4-6-6-8-10 times = 232-252-284-304-324-356 stitches. When all the increases are finished, the piece should measure 21-23-24-27-27-30 cm. If the length is shorter than this, continue working to the correct length without further increases. Now divide the yoke for the body and sleeves on the next round as follows: Work the first 35-38-42-45-49-55 stitches (= ½ back piece), place the next 46-50-58-62-64-68 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 12-12-12-14-14-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 70-76-84-90-98-110 stitches (= front piece), place the next 46-50-58-62-64-68 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 12-12-12-14-14-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the last 35-38-42-45-49-55 stitches (= ½ back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. BODY: = 164-176-192-208-224-248 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 29-29-29-28-29-28 cm from the division, increase 16-18-20-20-22-26 stitches evenly spaced = 180-194-212-228-246-274 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP. The jumper measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from the shoulder down. SLEEVE: Place the 46-50-58-62-64-68 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 12-12-12-14-14-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 58-62-70-76-78-82 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 4 cm from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 11-6-3½-3-3-2½ cm a total of 4-6-9-11-11-13 times = 50-50-52-54-56-56 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 41-39-39-37-38-36 cm from the division. Knit 1 round where you decrease 10-8-8-8-10-8 stitches evenly spaced = 40-42-44-46-46-48 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP. Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Fold the neck double to the wrong side and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important the seam is elastic. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (67)
Jérôme wrote:
Greetings, Is there any way to know the height of the model in the picture and the size he is wearing? It would be nice to have this information for all your patterns. Regards.
18.03.2024 - 11:51DROPS Design answered:
Dear Jérôme, our models usually wear a size S or a size M but to find the best appropriate size, just measure a similar garment you have and like the shape, that's the best way to find out the matching size - read more here. Happy knitting!
18.03.2024 - 15:14RIBAULT Martine wrote:
Est-ce que ce modèle homme (taille M) peut être réalisé avec le fil KARISMA ? Si pas possible, quel le fil complémentaire que je pourrais travailler avec KARISMA, pour obtenir le même échantillon que celui des explications de ce modèle ? Merci pour votre réponse.
01.02.2024 - 18:40DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Ribault, ce pull est fait en Alaska, groupe de fils C mais Karisma appartient tau groupe de fils B, il vous faudrait donc entièrement recalculer les explications pour pouvoir le tricoter en Karisma; vous trouverez des pulls homme que vous pouvez réaliser en Karisma (utilisez le convertisseur si besoin). Bon tricot!
02.02.2024 - 08:04Grandet wrote:
Bonjour. Quand je tricote les épaules, peu importe la façon d'augmenter les mailles, les côtés (dos et devant) justes près de l'épaule ne se mettent pas à plat, représentent comme des vagues, comme s'il y avait plus de matière. comment éviter cela? Merci beaucoup pour votre aide et désolée pour ma question un peu tordue.
24.12.2023 - 09:19DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Grandet, est-ce que cette vidéoDROPS Workshop. Bon tricot!
02.01.2024 - 08:07Laura wrote:
Vorrei realizzare questo modello in Baby Merino e Kid Silk. Ho visto il convertitore verso Baby Merino, ma non so se sto facendo i conti correttamente quando poi divido i gomitoli fra i due filati. Dai 700 g di Alaska arrivo a 600 di Baby Merino (usato doppio), il che significherebbe, usando il filato singolo... quanti gomitoli di Baby Merino e quanti di Kid Silk? Grazie!!
19.12.2023 - 22:37DROPS Design answered:
Buongiormo Laura, 700 g di Alaska corrispondono a 980m: deve raggiungere la stessa metratura per entrambi i filati se li vuole usare singoli, quindi 980m/170m sono circa 6 gomitoli di Baby Merino e 980m/210m corrispondono a circa 5 gomitoli di Kid-Silk. Buon lavoro!
21.12.2023 - 08:11Nel wrote:
Mooie trui maar heel jammer dat er geen verkorte toeren in het rugpand gebreid worden. De trui valt nu aan de voorkant echt niet mooi en het zit ook niet fijn.
01.12.2023 - 16:09Mira wrote:
Hello, Although I got the original Alaska yarn suggested for this pattern and I'm not a tight or loose knitter, my gauge is 14 x 20 instead of 17 x 22 on 5mm needles. I don't want to change to a smaller needle because the fabric on my swatch is already nice and firm, the person I'm knitting this for is in accordance with size M of this pattern, do you think I can go one size down and knit size S? My math calculations shows 10 cm bigger difference even if I knit size S.
03.08.2023 - 08:59DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mira, 17 sts x 22 rows with needle size 5 mm is a usual tension for Alaska - you might try with smaller needles to be sure to get the correct tension as well as correct texture - note that the width but also the height is important to such patterns. If you want to keep your own tension, check thoroughly that the pattern will match the finished measurements with your own tension. Happy knitting!
03.08.2023 - 14:21Sólrún wrote:
Hey DROPS Team!\r\nI’m knitting a size M and according to the pattern I have to increase every other round, 16 times in total and it says that the piece should measure 7cm after that. Im on round 12 now and the piece already measures 19cm measured from the neck (where I changed from 4mm to 5mm). I don’t knit particularly loose so I’m wondering if I’m misunderstanding the pattern? Is it just 8 rounds of increases and then 8 rounds of knit one round=16? I’d appreciate any help!
19.05.2023 - 00:34DROPS Design answered:
Dear Sólrún, remember to check and keep the correct tension in width but also in height; if you have 22 rows = 10 cm, then the 16 increase rounds for saddle shoulder should measure approx. 7cm from the marker inserted mid back, ie after neck edge (just before inserting markers). Happy knitting!
19.05.2023 - 08:51Cristina Borghetti wrote:
Buongiorno, In che modo posso ottenere uno scollo più accentuato davanti evitando la piega che si forma?
15.05.2023 - 17:20DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Cristina, per un aiuto così personalizzato può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!
15.05.2023 - 21:38Sunny wrote:
Hey! I’m confused by which size I need to make. The bust circumference of the person I’m knitting for is 95-100cm. According to the measurement I would then knit size XXL, is that correct? Seems like a lot for a normal size guy, do the patterns run large?
09.05.2023 - 19:35DROPS Design answered:
Dear Sunny! Measurements of the finished garment are given at the end of the pattern in cm. Please add around 5 cm easy for your bust circumference for a fitted jumper or more for a loose jumper. So in your case choose size M for a fitted jumper or bigger for a loose jumper. But make sure you check your knitting tension as well! Hope it helps!
09.05.2023 - 22:20Hippolyte wrote:
Bonjour, Je souhaite réaliser ce modèle en XXL mais avec la laine Air. Est-ce que onze pelotes suffiront? Merci par avance
01.03.2023 - 18:42DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Hippolyte, fout à fait, il vous faut 467 g Air pour remplacer 1000 g Alaska, soit 10 pelotes (pour être sûr d'en avoir assez) (utilisez notre convertisseur pour vérifier les nouvelles quantités)- pensez juste bien à vérifier votre échantillon pour avoir le bon nombre de mailles en largeur mais aussi le bon nombre de rangs en hauteur. Bon tricot!
02.03.2023 - 10:41