Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
DROPS 76-19 |
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DROPS Cardigan in Alaska
DROPS 76-19 |
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Gauge: 14 sts x 17 rows = 10 x 10 cm in stockinette Knitting tips (for neckband): All decs are made from right side. Dec 1 st as follows: After the garter st sts: Sl 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso. Before the garter st sts: K 2 tog. Back: Loosely cast on 81-88-95-102 sts. Knit 10 rows garter st. Change to stockinette st, increasing 12 sts evenly distributed on the 1st row = 93-100-107-114 sts. When the piece measures 35-36-37-38 cm bind off 1 st at each side for armholes = 91-98-105-112 sts. When the piece measures 50-52-54-56 cm bind off the center 19-20-21-22 sts for the neck. On the next row dec 1 st at each neck edge = 35-38-41-44 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 52-54-56-58 cm. Left front: Cast on 43-47-50-54 sts. Knit 10 rows garter st. Change to stockinette st, keeping 6 sts in garter st at center front edge for button band and increasing 6 sts evenly distributed on the 1st row = 49-53-56-60 sts. Read the entire next section before knitting: Collar: When the piece measures 27-29-30-32 cm inc 2 sts inside the 1st button band st - knit the increased sts in garter st. Then knit 2 short rows garter st over only the 8 outermost sts at the center front. Then knit all sts again, at the same time inc 1 st inside of the outermost button band st every row 5 times, then every other row 5 times and then every 4 rows 6 times = 18 sts increased for collar - knit the increased sts in garter st. Neckband: At the same time when the piece measures 30-32-33-35 cm dec for the neckband (but continue to inc for collar) as follows: dec 1 st inside of all garter st sts (the 6 button band sts + the sts increased for collar) - see knitting tips - every other row 13-14-14-15 times. Armhole: At the same time when the piece measures 35-36-37-38 cm bind off 1 edge st at the side for armhole. After all shaping for neck and armhole is complete you have 53-56-59-62 sts. When the piece measures 52-54-56-58 cm bind off shoulder sts + 6 button band sts (= 35-38-41-44 sts). Only the garter st collar sts remain on needles = 18 sts. Collar: Continue with garter st over the 18 sts as follows: * 2 rows garter st over all sts, 2 rows garter st over only the outermost 12 sts *, repeat from * - * until the collar measures approx. 7.5-8-8-8.5 cm or to center back of the neck. Put sts on a st holder. Right front: Cast on and knit the same as the left but reversing all shaping. Make buttonholes along button band. 1 buttonhole = bind off the 4th st from edge and on the next row yo over the bound off st. Make buttonholes when the piece measures: Size S/M: 7, 14, 21 and 28 cm. Size M/L: 9, 16, 23 and 30 cm. Size XL: 10, 17, 24 and 31 cm. Size XXL: 12, 19, 26 and 33 cm. Sleeve: Loosely cast on 40-42-44-46 sts. Knit garter st for 12 cm. Change to stockinette st and inc 1 st at each side every 6.5-6-4.5-4 cm a total of 5-5-6-6 times = 50-52-56-58 sts. When sleeve measures 41-39-37-35 cm bind off 4 sts at each side every other row 2 times. Then bind off the remaining sts. The piece measures approx. 43-41-39-37 cm. Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Join the collar at center back. Sew the collar to neck band with the seam on the right side so it will not show when the collar folds down. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams using edge sts as a seam allowance. Sew on buttons. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (6)
Bonjour Je ne sais si c'est à cause de la traduction ou si en vieillissant je deviens stupide mais je ne comprends absolument pas les explications pour le col sur les devants. Existe t il un croquis ?Doit on rajouter une maille au point mousse à chaque rang ?Merci de votre aide.
15.12.2022 - 22:54DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Régine, vous allez augmenter pour le col et en même temps, diminuer pour l'encolure ainsi (devant gauche): augmentez 2 m pour le col à 1 m du bord puis augmentez 1 m: 5 x tous les rangs (sur l'envers augmentez après la première m), 5 x tous les 2 rangs puis 6 x tous les 4 rangs =2+5+5+6=18 m pour le col. En même temps, vous diminuez pour l'encoure juste avant les mailles de la bordure devant + les mailles augmentées pour le col: 13, 14 ou 15 fois tous les 2 rangs (on diminue le nombre de mailles jersey). Bon tricot!
16.12.2022 - 08:31Sorry to ask again but I have done all of that. Further down the pattern it says Collar: Continue with garter stitches over the 18 stitches ... until the collar measures approx. 7.5 cm. Put stitches on a holder. The English pattern does not say what to do with these 12 stitches left on the holder.
07.04.2020 - 14:15DROPS Design answered:
Dear Jeanie, when you have 18 sts left for collar, work over these 18 stitches with short rows, ie: 2 rows over all stitches, 2 rows over the 12 sts outermost sts only and repeat these 4 rows, ie you will work more rows over the first 18 sts then over the whole 18 sts and this will shape collar. Repeat these 4 rows until piece measures 7.5 cm (= it will measures approx. 15 cm along the outermost stitches). Happy knitting!
09.04.2020 - 15:49For the front panels they seem to end at the collar where the last 18 stitches are put on a holder. I cannot see what you are supposed to do with these stitches. Can you help?
07.04.2020 - 01:32DROPS Design answered:
Dear Janie, with the 18 stitches left on th eneedles for the collar, you should knit the following: Collar: When the piece measures 27-29-30-32 cm inc 2 sts inside the 1st button band st - knit the increased sts in garter st. Then knit 2 short rows garter st over only the 8 outermost sts at the center front. Then knit all sts again, at the same time inc 1 st inside of the outermost button band st every row 5 times, then every other row 5 times and then every 4 rows 6 times = 18 sts increased for collar - knit the increased sts in garter st. Happy Knitting!
07.04.2020 - 05:26Bonjour, je ne comprends pas où l'on doit faire les rangs raccourcis sur le devant gauche. est ce au milieu du travail ou bien sur les mailles de bordure au point mousse? merci
26.09.2019 - 08:44DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Louise, on tricote des rangs raccourcis sur les 8 mailles côté bordure devant, ainsi, pour le devant gauche, en début de rang sur l'envers, tricotez les 8 premières mailles, tournez, tricotez ces 8 mailles de nouveau, et continuez comme avant sur toutes les mailles. Bon tricot!
26.09.2019 - 10:44Hola otra vez! estoy algo atascada con este preyecto. No consigo entender esta parte del patron: dism 1 pt dentro de todos los pts en pt musgo (los 6 pts del borde para los botones + los pts aum para el cuello) – ver Tips para la elaboración del tejido – en vtas alternas 13-14-14-15 veces. (borde del cuello) ¿a que se refiere con disminuir un punto dentro de todos los puntos?? Gracias por la ayuda! un saludo!
18.09.2014 - 20:40DROPS Design answered:
Hola Mercedes. Cuando se dice aum/dism dentro de los pts de la cenefa significa trabajar los pts de la cenefa y trabajar los aum/dism en el anterior/siguiente pt antes/después de los pts de la cenefa. Las dism/aum siempre se trabajan por el LD (salvo que diga lo contrario el patrón).
19.09.2014 - 10:32Hola! creo que las medidas del patron están equivocadas. El busto para la talla S pone que son 130 cm (que me parece muy grande) y luego pone que son 51" que serían 103 cm, asique supongo que los inches son los que están bien. Luego en la cintura tengo el mismo problema porque si me fio de los inches,44, es muy estrecha, mientras si me fio de los cm, 112, lo veo bien. ¿alquien me puede ayudar? gracias!
25.01.2014 - 12:30DROPS Design answered:
Hola Mercedes. Las conversiones inches/cm son correctas: 51 inches por 2.54 = 129.5 cm. La chaqueta tiene un corte muy amplio.
28.01.2014 - 09:32