Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= P from RS, K from WS | |
= no stitch, skip this square | |
= P 2 tog | |
= slip 5 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 5, K 5 from cable needle | |
= slip 5 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 5, K 5 from cable needle |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Jackson |
|||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||
Knitted DROPS men’s jacket with simple cable, textured pattern and shawl collar in Karisma. Size: XS - XXXL.
DROPS 174-1 |
|||||||||||||||||||
GARTER ST (back and forth): K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. KNITTING TIP (applies to bands): To keep the bands from contracting vertically work short rows over bands as follows: * Beg mid front and K the outermost 10 sts (= band), turn piece, slip 1st st as if to K, tighten yarn and K the rest of row *, repeat from *-* after approx. every 10 rows in piece. INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to shawl collar): Inc 1 st in next to last st towards mid front by K in front and back loop of same st. INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to mid under sleeve): Inc 1 st on each side of st with marker mid under sleeve. Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round work YO twisted to avoid holes. Work the inc sts in the pattern A.3. DECREASE TIP (applies to neckline): Dec inside 10 band sts in garter st + inc sts for shawl collar. All dec are done from RS! Dec as follows before band + collar: K 2 tog. Dec as follows after collar + band: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. BUTTONHOLES: Dec for buttonholes from RS on left band (when garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = work 6 band sts as before, slip next to last st on right needle over outermost st on right needle, K 1, slip next to last st on right needle over outermost st on right needle (2 sts cast off), K the last 3 sts. On next row cast on 2 new sts over the cast off sts. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures: SIZE XS/S: 2, 12, 21, 31, 40 and 50 cm. SIZE M: 2, 12, 21, 31, 41 and 51 cm. Size L: 2, 12, 22, 32, 42 and 52 cm. SIZE XL: 3, 13, 23, 33, 43 and 53 cm. Size XXL: 3, 13, 23, 33, 43 and 54 cm. SIZE XXXL: 3, 13, 24, 34, 45 and 55 cm. ---------------------------------------------------------- JACKET: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. BODY: Cast on 243-271-299-327-355-383 sts (incl 10 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm with Karisma. P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 10 band sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, A.1A (= 28 sts), * K 3, P 4 *, repeat from *-* 11-13-15-17-19-21 times in total, K 3, P 7 (= mid back), * K 3, P 4 *, repeat from *-* 11-13-15-17-19-21 times in total, K 3, A.2A (= 28 sts) and 10 band sts in garter st. Work back from WS with garter st over garter st, P over P, K over K. Continue rib until piece measures 8 cm, remember BUTTONHOLES on left band – see explanation above and KNITTING TIP. Work next row as follows from RS: 10 band sts as before, A.1B (= 28 sts dec to 25 sts), * K 3, P 2, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 11-13-15-17-19-21 times in total, K 3, P 2 tog, P 3, P 2 tog, * K 3, P 2, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 11-13-15-17-19-21 times in total, K 3, A.2B (= 28 sts dec to 25 sts) and 10 band sts as before = 213-237-261-285-309-333 sts. Work back from WS with garter st over garter st, P over P, K over K, (work A.1B and A.2B as shown in diagram). Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 10 band sts as before, A.4 (= 25 sts), work A.3A over the next 72-84-96-108-120-132 sts (= 12-14-16-18-20-22 repetitions of 6 sts), work A.3B (= 5 sts), work A.3C over the next 66-78-90-102-114-126 sts (= 11-13-15-17-19-21 repetitions of 6 sts), work A.5 (= 25 sts) and finish with 10 band sts as before. Insert 1 marker in the 59th-65th-71st-77th-83rd-89th st in from each side (markers are in a st in garter st in the sides on body). Continue the pattern like this and move the markers upwards when working. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm, cast off 7 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. cast off st with marker + 3 sts on each side of this). Then finish front and back piece separately. BACK PIECE: = 89-101-113-125-137-149 sts. Continue A.3 on back piece as before and cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 2 sts 0-0-2-5-5-7 times and 1 st 2-2-4-4-4-6 times = 85-97-97-97-109-109 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm. Now cast off the middle 23-27-27-27-29-29 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Cast off 2 st on next row from neck = 29-33-33-33-38-38 sts remain on the shoulder. Continue to work until piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm and loosely cast off. Repeat on the other shoulder. LEFT FRONT PIECE: = 55-61-67-73-79-85 sts. Continue the pattern as before and cast off for armhole at beg of every row from the side as on back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when 2 rows have been worked after last buttonhole on band work 1 ridge (i.e. 2 rows K) over only the outermost 10 band sts towards mid front (do not work the other sts on row). Then work over all sts on row as before. AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st for shawl collar towards mid front – READ INCREASE TIP-1. Inc like this every other row 18-18-18-20-20-20 times in total. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 52-53-54-55-56-57 cm (2 cm should now be worked after last buttonhole), dec 1 st for neckline towards mid front - READ DECREASE TIP. Dec like this every other row (i.e. every row from RS) a total of 10-12-12-12-13-13 times and then every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) 4 times in total in all sizes. After all inc and dec, there are 57-61-61-63-68-68 sts on needle. When piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, cast off the outermost 29-33-33-33-38-38 sts on shoulder = 28-28-28-30-30-30 sts remain for collar. Continue back and forth in garter st over these sts as follows: * 1 ridge over all sts, 1 ridge over only the outermost 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts *, repeat from *-* until collar measures approx. 9-9-9-10-10-10 cm inside on the most narrow (collar measures approx. 18-18-18-20-20-20 cm at the edge on the widest). Cast off. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Work as left but reversed. NOTE: Do not dec for buttonholes on right band. When working 1 ridge over only the outermost 10 sts towards mid front, adjust according to left front piece. SLEEVE: Cast on 56-56-63-63-63-70 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with Karisma. K 1 round. Work next round as follows: * K 3, P 4 *, repeat from *-* the entire round. When piece measures 6 cm, work next round as follows: * K 3, P 2, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48-48-54-54-54-60 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.3A. Insert 1 marker in last st on round (i.e. in st in garter st = mid under sleeve) and move the marker upwards. When piece measures 8 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP-2. Inc a total of 18-20-20-22-25-25 times in Size S: On every 7th round, in size M + L: On every 6th round, in size XL: On every 5th round, in size XXL: Alternately on every 4th and 5th round and size XXXL: On every 4th round = 84-88-94-98-104-110 sts. When piece measures 53-53-51-49-49-46 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders) cast off the middle 7 sts under sleeve (cast off st with marker + 3 sts on each side of this). Now work sleeve cap back and forth on circular needle. Continue with the pattern while AT THE SAME TIME casting off at beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-1-2-3-3-4 time and 1 st 2-2-3-3-3-6 times. Continue to cast off 2 sts in each side of piece until piece measures 59 cm in all sizes, cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side and cast off the remaining sts. Sleeve measures approx. 60 cm in all sizes. Knit another sleeve the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams. Sew collar tog mid back (make sure that seam is not visible when collar is folded down). Sew collar to neckline in the back of neck. Sew in sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the right band. |
|||||||||||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
|||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (204)
Dorthe Nielsen wrote:
Jeg slog 299 masker op til en str. L. Da jeg var færdig med ribkanten og skulle til at strikke selve mønsteret, havde jeg tre masker for meget. 10 kantmasker, 28 m i A.1B, 105+10+105m over sider og ryg, 28 m i A.2B og 10 km. Det giver 296 m. Hvad skal jeg gøre med de sidste 3 masker? På forhånd tak Mvh Dorthe
09.12.2023 - 19:53DROPS Design answered:
Hei Dorthe. Ser du som du har glemt å strikk de 3 rett maskene før A.2A og de 10 siste stolpemaskene. mvh DROPS Design
11.12.2023 - 11:29Karin Svensson wrote:
Stickar Kofta Jackson storl L. Hur utläses A.1B Vad betyder det att 7:e m från hö är " ingen m, hoppa över denna m". Jag antar att diagrammet läses uppifrån o ner och från hö till vä. Skall maskan som är "ingen m" lyftas och i så fall ska tråden ligga bakom eller framför denna m. Fattar inte.
19.11.2023 - 15:53DROPS Design answered:
Hei Karin. Nei, man leser et strikkediagram motsatt av slik man normalt leser: Fra høyre mot venstre, nedenfra og opp. Du begynner altså nederst i det høyre hjørnet, og jobber deg mot venstre og oppover. mvh DROPS Design
20.11.2023 - 11:27Brandi Agnew wrote:
Pattern: Jackson DROPS 174-1/ size: xxxl Hi again. I’m currently beginning the decreases for the sleeve cap. The instructions say to bind off at the beg of every row in each side. Does this mean complete a decrease only at the beginning of the rows? Or, does this mean decreases are to be completed at the beginning and end of the rows? Thanks in advance.
18.11.2023 - 15:35DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Agnew, you have to cast off the same number of stitches first at the beg of a row from RS then finish row as before, turn and cast off the same number of sts at the beg of next row from WS, continue row as before. And continue like this, this means in XXXL you will first cast off 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then cast off 1 stitch at the beg of next 12 rows (6 times on each side), then cast off 2 sts at the beg of next 2 rows until sleeve measures 59 cm, then cast off 3 sts at the beg of next 2 rows and cast off the remaining stitches. Happy knitting!
20.11.2023 - 10:08Kit Laursen wrote:
Hej. Jeg er nået til udtagningerne i sjalskraven/forkanten og vil høre om jeg fortsat skal strikke de forkortede pinde på hver 10. pind? Hilsen Kit
22.09.2023 - 09:09DROPS Design answered:
Hej Kit, ja dem fortsætter du med :)
26.09.2023 - 15:31Anne Rosvall wrote:
Continue to cast off 2 sts in each side of piece until… (sleeve). So cast off once or more times?
05.09.2023 - 19:31DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Rowall, depending on your tension in height, you have to cast off 2 stitches on each side until you reach the required length. Make just sure that you cast off the same number of times these 2 stitches on each side so that the sleeve cap will be symmetrical. Happy knitting!
06.09.2023 - 09:06Dupont wrote:
Bonjour, Pour les manches, pourquoi utiliser des aiguilles doubles pointes (5 ?) plutôt qu’une aiguille circulaire ? Bonne réception
24.07.2023 - 16:12DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Dupont, si vous aimez la technique magic loop, vous pouvez utiliser une aiguille circulaire pour les manches. Bon tricot!
24.07.2023 - 16:19Brandi Agnew wrote:
Hello I am working the left side and am at the point of working the neckline + shawl collar. In the decrease tip, am I to complete all of those steps or am I to choose one?
22.06.2023 - 22:13DROPS Design answered:
Hi Brandi, On the front pieces, work only one of the decreases (either before or after the band depending on whether the band is at the beginning or end of the row). Hope this helps and happy knitting!
23.06.2023 - 06:42Leonie O’Garro-Hovens wrote:
Fout in de omschrijving, ik brei dit vest, heb 355 steken opgezet, na de boord in totaal 44 steken geminderd (3+19+19+3) geeft een totaal van 311 steken en niet zoals in patroon staat van 309. Zou fijn zijn als dit gecorrigeerd kan worden voor toekomstige breiers,
09.04.2023 - 15:19Isabelle wrote:
Bonjour. Je suis rendue aux augmentations et diminutions du col châle devant gauche. Ma question est la suivante: j’ai besoin de précisions en ce qui concerne les explications de cette partie. VOIR DIMINUTIONS 12 fois au total tous les 2 rangs et 4 fois dans toutes les tailles à tous les 4 rangs. Je ne comprends pas comment faire ces diminutions en même temps. Aussi aux 4 rangs est-ce bien des diminutions? Merci pour vos précisions.
18.02.2023 - 14:14DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Isabelle, vous diminuez pour l'encolure après (devant droit) / avant (devant gauche) toutes les mailles du col autrement dit les 10 mailles de la bordure devant + celles que vous avez augmentées en plus (et que vous allez continuer à augmenter). Diminuez 12 x tous les 2 rangs + 4 x tous les 4 rangs, mais, en même temps, continuez à augmenter pour le col comme avant. Bon tricot!
20.02.2023 - 09:34Pia Spånghagen wrote:
Jag stickar L - Large Hälsning Pia
30.01.2023 - 10:19DROPS Design answered:
Hei Pia. Jo, det blir riktig. For å få det likt midt bak strikkes det slik det er forklart i oppskriften. Midt bak ryggen vil da bli siste masken av siste rapport av A.3A . Altså du har strikket 10 stolpemasker + 25 masker (A.4) + 96 (A.3A) = 131 maske og da er maske nr 131 midtmasken på ryggen. Så strikker du 5 masker (A.3B) + 90 (A.3C) + 25 (A.5) + 10 stolpemasker = 130 masker. mvh DROPS Design
30.01.2023 - 13:21