Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= beige | |
= navy blue | |
= forest | |
= deep ocean | |
= denim blue | |
= purple | |
= goldenrod | |
= raspberry pink | |
= deep red | |
= increase round |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Rainbow Hugs |
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Knitted jumper with Nordic Fana pattern, round yoke, stripes, worked top down with split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Nepal.
DROPS 183-25 |
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INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN: RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth - for the front and back pieces): 1 ridge = Knit 2 rows. RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round – for yoke and sleeves): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round. MOSS STITCH: ROW 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-*. ROW 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit. Repeat row 2. PATTERN: See diagram A.1. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch. ROUND YOKE: Increase on yoke on each side of the stitches with markers (= 16 increased stitches per row – see arrows in A.1) as follows: Make 1 yarn over on each side of stitch with marker. On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. INCREASE TIP (for body): Work until there are 2 stitches left before marker thread, make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 stitches (marker thread sits in middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased). Increase in this way at both marker threads (= a total of 4 stitches increased). Knit the yarn overs twisted on next row to avoid holes. DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, knit 2 (marker thread sits in middle of these 2 stitches), knit the next 2 stitches together. The stitches which do not fit into the pattern are worked in background colour. ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER: The piece is worked in the round with circular needle from mid back, top down. You can work an elevation in back of neck for a better fit, so that the neck is a little higher at back. You can skip this elevation if you wish; the neck will then be the same front and back – see description of elevation further down in text. After the yoke, the body is worked in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down. NECKLINE: Cast on 74-78-82-86-90-96 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and beige. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Work as follows from mid back: Work 13-14-15-16-17-18 stitches stocking stitch and increase 0-2-2-2-3-5 stitches evenly over these stitches, * 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work from *-* a total of 11 times, 26-28-30-32-34-37 stitches stocking stitch and increase 0-4-4-4-6-9 stitches evenly over these stitches, * 1 yarn over, knit 1 *, work from *-* a total of 11 times, 13-14-15-16-17-19 stitches stocking stitch and increase 0-2-2-2-3-4 stitches evenly = 96-108-112-116-124-136 stitches. Work the yarn overs twisted, there should be no holes. Now you can work an elevation in back of neck or go straight to yoke if you do not want an elevation. ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK: Skip this section if you do not want an elevation. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of round (= mid back). Start from the right side with beige and knit until you have reached 11-11-12-13-13-14 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten strand and purl 22-22-24-26-26-28 stitches. Turn, tighten strand and knit 33-33-36-39-39-42 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 44-44-48-52-52-56 stitches. Turn, tighten strand and knit 55-55-60-65-65-70 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 66-66-72-78-78-84 stitches. Turn, tighten strand and knit to mid back. YOKE: Insert 8 marker threads in the piece as follows: Work 5-7-6-8-9-8 stitches stocking stitch, insert 1 marker in next stitch, * 11-12-13-13-14-16 stitches stocking stitch, insert 1 marker in next stitch *, work from *-* a total of 7 times, finish with 6-9-7-9-9-8 stitches stocking stitch. On the next round work A.1 (= 24-27-28-29-31-34 repeats of 4 stitches) AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker – read ROUND YOKE, on the rounds marked with an arrow in A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Increase a total of 9-10-11-12-13-14 times (when you have increased this number of times, you no longer increase on the rounds marked with arrows in the diagram) = 240-268-288-308-332-360 stitches. Continue with pattern without increases until the piece measures 21-22-23-25-27-29 cm from the cast-on edge mid front. The next round is worked as follows – adjust so that it is a round worked with beige: Work 34-38-40-44-49-54 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 52-58-64-66-68-72 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on needle (= under sleeve), work 68-76-80-88-98-108 stitches (= front piece), place the next 52-58-64-66-68-72 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on needle (= under sleeve) and work the remaining 34-38-40-44-49-54 stitches (= half back piece). BODY: = 148-164-176-192-216-236 stitches. Insert 1 marker in piece, THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the new 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches that where cast on. Let the marker thread follow piece from now on. Continue with A.1. When A.1 has been completed in height, continue working with beige. When the piece measures 3 cm from where sleeves were placed on 1 thread, increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker thread (= 4 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP! Increase in this way every 5 cm a total of 6 times = 172-188-200-216-240-260 stitches. When the piece measures 29-30-31-31-31-31 cm from where the piece was separated, divide the piece at the marker threads and front and back pieces are finished separately (= 8 cm split). BACK PIECE: = 86-94-100-108-120-130 stitches. The piece is continued back and forth. Work stocking stitch with 5 stitches MOSS STITCH – see description above, in each side of piece. When piece measures 36-37-38-38-38-38 cm from the marker, change to circular needle size 4 mm and work 2 ridges – see description above, over all stitches. Then cast off with circular needle size 5 mm (this is so the cast-off edge will not be tight). The piece measures a total of approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm measured from the shoulder. FRONT PIECE: Work as for back piece. SLEEVE: The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles. Place the 52-58-64-66-68-72 stitches from the thread in one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 5 mm and, in addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 58-64-72-74-78-82 stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and A.1. When A.1 has been completed in height, continue with beige. When the piece measures 3 cm decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 3-3-2-2-1½-1½ cm a total of 10-12-16-16-17-18 times = 38-40-40-42-44-46 stitches. When piece measures 41-40-40-38-37-35 cm, change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work 2 RIDGES – see description above, over all stitches. Cast off with double pointed needles size 5 mm (this is so the cast-off edge will not be tight). The sleeve measures approx. 42-41-41-39-38-36 cm from where it was separated from body. Work the other sleeve in the same way. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (15)
Vicky Wills wrote:
Hi, Is it possible to knit the sleeves using circular needles instead of DPN's? I'm still learning and don't know how to use DPN's but okay on circular Do you then follow A1 from the start of the chart for the sleeves?
26.08.2021 - 13:49DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Wills, sure you can, you will then divide the sts on sleeve from mid under sleeve in 2 parts and knit with the magic loop technique, beg of rounds are mid under sleeve, and follow A.1 starting from the mid under sleeve, as for dpn. Happy knitting!
26.08.2021 - 16:25Tiina wrote:
How do the sizes go?? What are measures in centimeters for example in XL, XXL ?
14.09.2020 - 14:08DROPS Design answered:
Dear Tiina, you will find measurements for each size in the measurement chart - read more about the shematic drawing here. Happy knitting!
14.09.2020 - 15:48Isabelle Vavasour wrote:
I have just picked up the stitches to knit the sleeve, having finished the body of the jumper. I have 74 stitches as instructed in the pattern BUT the pattern requires a repeat of 4... and 74 is not a multiple of 4... what should i do?
17.01.2020 - 18:41DROPS Design answered:
Dear Isabelle, for those stitches you cannot fit into the patter, knit with the color of the stripe's base(background color). Happy Knitting!
19.01.2020 - 00:53Birgitte wrote:
Hej Jeg skal til at strikke Drops 183-25 i str. M Jeg kan dog ikke få maskeantal til at gå op ved udtagninger i halskant. Der står flg. i opskriften Strik 14 m., tag 2 masker ud 11 gang. Strik 28 masker, tag4 masker ud 11 gange, strik 14 masker, tag 2 masker ud. Der står i opskriften at maskeantal nu er 108, jeg får maskeantal til 124. Hvad gør jeg forkert? Mvh Birgitte Juul
07.10.2019 - 09:57DROPS Design answered:
Hei Birgitte. Du har 78 masker og strikkes slik: Strikk 14 masker, øk 2 masker jevnt fordelt, deretter strikkes det slik 11 ganger: *1 kast, 1 rett* (= 22 masker), strikk 28 masker, øk 4 masker, deretter strikkes det slik 11 ganger igjen: *1 kast, 1 rett (= 22 masker), strikk 14 masker, øk 2 masker (= 14+2+22+28+4+22+14+2) = 108 masker. God Fornøyelse!
07.10.2019 - 14:01Laurence wrote:
Bonjour, je ne comprends les explications pour les augmentations à faire après les 2 cotes mousse ? pouvez vous me donner des explications plus simples pour la taille M ? merci beaucoup
02.05.2019 - 21:48DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Laurence, cette leçon vous explique comment augmenter à intervalles réguliers. Bon tricot!
03.05.2019 - 08:58Susan wrote:
Die Nackenerhöhung ist unvollständig - wenn man es sich aufzeichnet, wie es beschrieben ist, hat man am Ende auf der einen Seite der Mitte 6 verkürzte Reihen und auf der anderen Seite der Mitte nur 4 verkürzte Reihen, so dass am Ende nochmal bis über die Mitte hinaus zum anderen Wendepunkt (66-66... Maschen) gestrickt werden muss, damit man am Ende auf beiden Seiten gleich viele verkürzte Reihen hat.
25.04.2019 - 08:19DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Susan, Sie sind ja recht, eine Korrektur erflogt gleich. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
29.04.2019 - 13:57Eva Cisneros wrote:
Estoy haciendo el jersey en la talla S. En la parte de poner los marcadores no me cuadran los puntos. Tengo 96 puntos. Si tengo que hacer 5 puntos y marcar 7 veces cada 11 puntos y me quedan 6. Suman 88 puntos. Me sobran 8 puntos.
09.03.2019 - 00:58DROPS Design answered:
Hola Eva. Los 8 puntos no sobran - son los puntos con los marcapuntos
10.03.2019 - 20:33Selva AKINCI wrote:
My question is about inserting 8 markets before the yoke. The pattern tells me to knit 8 stitches (for size XL) insert a marker and knit 13 stitches and insert a marker and repeat this 6 more times, after which I am supposed to knit 9 more stitches. But this falls short of the total of 116 stiches for 116 stitches of size XL by 8 stiches. Are those extra 8 stiches in the back? (8+(13×7)+9=108. 116-108=8.
20.07.2018 - 18:55DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Akinci, the 8 missing sts looks to be the sts with markers, ie you insert here markers in the next st and not between sts, so that your number of stitches will then match. Happy knitting!
23.07.2018 - 09:00Nuala Brummitt wrote:
Thank you for your reply. I had already done what you suggested, as it seemed to me to be the only way forward, glad I got it right! Unfortunately that particular 'turn' left a hole, even though I 'wrapped & turned' it, but hopefully I'll be able to 'draw' it together, when I 'block'. All else good! Thank You!
25.01.2018 - 21:07DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Brummitt, you can also use the technique of wrap & turns for the short rows on elevation - see here from RS and here from WS. Happy knitting!
26.01.2018 - 08:22Nuala Brummitt wrote:
As the last short row for the back of neck elevation, is a purl row, how do you get back to knit rows, or 'stocking stitch' on circular needles?
24.01.2018 - 21:47DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Brummitt, when you have worked the last short ro from RS, turn and P all sts to the end of row (= to mid back again). Turn and continue now from RS. Happy knitting!
25.01.2018 - 08:18