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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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= off white / off white | |
= grey purple / denim blue | |
= blue purple / amethyst | |
= black / black | |
= K 2 tog with the colour currently being used (make sure that the pattern fits) |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Augusta |
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Knitted DROPS jacket with short sleeves and Norwegian pattern in BabyAlpaca Silk or Flora. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS 142-18 |
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GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Work entire pattern in stocking st. KNITTING TIP 1: When A.2 is worked, there will be 1 st at the end of row that do not fit the pattern. This st is worked in the pattern as first st in next repetition so that the pattern beg and ends the same way in each side towards mid front. NOTE: Do not dec in this st. KNITTING TIP 2: To avoid the garment loosing its elasticity when working pattern it is important that the threads are not too tight on the back of piece. If needed go up in needle size when working pattern if the pattern looks somewhat tight. ---------------------------------------------------------- BODY: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 252-280-312-344-384-428 sts on circular needle size 2 mm with blue purple or denin blue. P 1 row from WS, work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above - * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain and finish with K 2 and 1 edge st in GARTER ST. Continue rib like this for 4 cm – adjust so that next row is worked from RS. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm and K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 49-53-61-69-77-81 sts evenly = 203-227-251-275-307-347 sts. Work next row as follows from WS: 1 edge st in garter st, work diagram A.1 until 2 sts remain, finish with 1st st in A.1 (so that pattern beg and ends the same way in each side towards mid front) and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue the pattern like this. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue in stocking st with blue purple or denim blue. Insert 2 markers in the piece; 51-57-63-69-77-87 sts in from each side (= 101-113-125-137-153-173 sts between markers on back piece). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st on each side of both markers (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm 3 more times = 219-243-267-291-323-363 sts. When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm, cast off 8 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. 4 sts on each side of both markers) = 51-57-63-69-77-87 sts on each front piece and 101-113-125-137-153-173 sts on back piece. Put piece aside and work the sleeve edges. SLEEVE EDGE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 84-88-96-100-104-112 sts on double pointed needles size 2 mm with blue purple or denim blue. K 1 round, then work rib (= K 2/P 2) for 4 cm. Work next round as follows: Cast off 4 sts at beg of round, K until 4 sts remain and cast off these 4 sts = 76-80-88-92-96-104 sts. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve edge. YOKE: Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 355-387-427-459-499-555 sts. Work 2-2-4-4-4-6 rows in stocking st with blue purple or denim blue (1st row = RS), AT THE SAME TIME dec 29-27-33-31-37-42 sts evenly on last row (= from WS) = 326-360-394-428-462-513 sts. READ KNITTING TIP 1 and 2 and work as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.2 (choose diagram for correct size) until 2 sts remain, finish with 1st st in A.2 and 1 edge st in garter st. Continue with pattern and dec until A.2 has been worked vertically (work until arrow for correct size) = 155-171-187-178-192-213 sts. LEFT BAND: Knit up from RS approx. 120 to 150 sts along left front piece on circular needle size 2 mm with blue purple or denim blue. P 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 149-157-161-169-173-181 sts. Then work rib as follows (seen from RS): 1 edge st in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain, finish with K 2 and 2 edge sts in garter st at the bottom of body. When rib measures 3 cm, loosely cast off with K over K and P over P. RIGHT BAND: Work as left band but when band measures approx. 1 cm, cast off for 5-5-5-6-6-6 button holes evenly. The top and bottom button hole should be approx. 4 cm from edge. 1 button hole = work 2 sts tog and make 1 YO (casting off in 2 P sts will look more pretty seen from RS). NECK EDGE: Slip sts from yoke on circular needle size 2 mm and knit in addition up 8 new sts over each band (knit up from RS inside 1 edge st) = 171-187-203-194-208-229 sts. P 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 23-31-43-26-32-49 sts evenly = 148-156-160-168-176-180 sts. Continue to work rib from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, finish with K 2 and 1 edge st in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME after 2 rows rib, work an elevation (in rib) at the back of neck as follows: Work until 17-19-21-23-25-27 sts remain on needle, turn, tighten thread and work until 17-19-21-23-25-27 sts remain in the other side, turn, tighten thread and work until 35-39-41-45-49-53 sts remain, turn, tighten thread and work until 35-39-41-45-49-53 sts remain in the other side, turn, tighten thread and work until 53-59-61-67-73-79 sts remain, turn, tighten thread and work until 53-59-61-67-73-79 sts remain in the other side, turn. Then continue with rib as before over all sts. AT THE SAME TIME when neck edge measures approx. 1½ cm at the front, cast off for 1 button hole over the others on right band. When neck edge measures 4 cm at the front, loosely cast off with K over K and P over P. ASSEMBLY: Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons. ---------------------------------------------------------- Wrist warmers and hat – see design: 142-16 ---------------------------------------------------------- |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (28)
Diana Ronsmans wrote:
"baby alpaca silk" :50 gr=167 m "drops lace"50 gr= 400 m.dit is bijna 3x meer. 200gr b.a.s.= hoeveel gr "drops lace?
08.05.2014 - 15:44DROPS Design answered:
Drops Lace is een dun kantgaren, bedoeld voor fijn en licht doorzichtig werk. We adviseren dit garen niet voor Noors breiwerk zoals dit vestje.
09.05.2014 - 08:41Ellen wrote:
Det står : Fortsett med mønster og fellinger til A.2 er strikket ferdig i høyden . Fellingen?! skal det fyllast etter at ein har begynne med mønster då?
28.01.2014 - 21:31DROPS Design answered:
Hej Ellen. Fellingerne kommer automatisk i diagrammet. F.eks. A.3 i str S/M/L i pind 10, 16, 18 osv. Se for din str/diagram.
29.01.2014 - 10:31Julie Hobson wrote:
Is it easy to make the sleeves longer in order to have a regular cardigan?
15.01.2014 - 11:16DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Hobson, you can calculate for long sleeves with the help of a similar pattern. Do not hesitate to request help from the store where you bought your yarn, or any knitting forum. Happy knitting!
15.01.2014 - 14:23Lise-Lotte Olsson wrote:
Hej, Det verkar vara fel på diagrammet i strl s/m/l. Det gäller minskningen mitt i "prickraden" ovanför stjärnan. Om man minskar så som diagrammet visar så får man inte varannan maska i olika färger utan det blir två maskor i natur, sedan prickar. Jag vet inte om det är meningen att det ska vara så, men det blir inte så på de större storlekarna och jag tycker mig inte se det på modellen heller. Mvh/Lotta
07.10.2013 - 13:51DROPS Design answered:
Hej, Tror du har ret, skal høre med design. Hvis du ikke kan vente så kan du tage ind på næste pind/varv istedet!
09.10.2013 - 09:48Rosa wrote:
Ich hab das Modell gestrickt. Aber leider ist an der Passe zu eng, sodaß ich die oberen Knöpfe nicht schließen kann, bzw es spannt...schade
21.03.2013 - 18:54Nisse wrote:
142:16
23.01.2013 - 08:52Zuzana wrote:
Good evening, Where yould I find the tutorial (manual)and diagram for gaiters which are on the second picture? Thx in advance ZuK
22.01.2013 - 22:14DROPS Design answered:
Dear Zuzana, you will find pattern for wrist warmers under DROPS no 142-16 - see link at the end of this pattern. Happy knitting!
23.01.2013 - 09:54Josée wrote:
Cute! Lovely bit of colour-work and nice clean details. I like this one very much.
08.07.2012 - 05:21Helene wrote:
This is adorable. It is a lovely use of color and Norwegian stars. Having it with short sleeves makes it wearable before the weather turns really cold. I'm looking forward to the pattern's publication in English.
17.06.2012 - 00:26Santra wrote:
Tästä tulee syksyn suosikki neule siitä olen varma. Ostoslista valmiina maanantaina aloitetaan ;)
16.06.2012 - 13:51