The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
DROPS 6-4 |
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DROPS sweater in English rib with v-neck knitted in Paris
DROPS 6-4 |
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Knitting tension: 12 sts x 36 rows on needle size 4 mm English rib = 10 x 10 cm 16 sts x 20 rows on needle size 2.5 mm and purl border 1/1 = 10 x 10 cm Rib: * K1 into back of sts, P1*, *-* English rib: 1. row: 1 edge st * K1, yo, slip 1 sts as if to knit*, *-*, 1 edge st. 2. row: 1 edge st * K yo and slipped sts tog, yo, slip 1 st as if to purl *-*, 1 edge st. 3. row: 1 edge st * K yo and slipped sts tog, yo, slip 1 st as if to knit * *-*, 1 edge st. Continuing, repeat 2nd and 3rd rows. Front piece: Cast on 66(72) sts on needle size 2.5 mm. Knit 7 cm rib 1/1. Change to needle size 4 mm and English rib. Knit until piece measures 28(31) cm. Cast off 2 middle sts for v-neck and then 1 sts 12 times on every 8 rows on each side to shape neckline = 20(23) sts shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 57 (60) cm Back piece: Knit like front piece without cast off for v-neck. Knit until piece measures 60(60) cm and cast off middle 22 sts for neck, then 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times on every other row on each side of neckline = 18(21) sts shoulder, cast off when piece measures 62(65) cm. Sleeves: Cast on 28 sts on needle size 2.5 mm and knit 7 cm rib 1/1. Change to needle size 4 mm and English rib. Inc 1 sts evenly on entire row = 42 sts on 1st row. Then inc 1 st on inside of 1st edge st on each side 13(15) times every 11(9) rows = 68(72) sts. When sleeve measures 48.5(47) cm cast off 28(30) sts towards front piece, knit 6 sts, cast off 34(36) sts towards back piece. Continue over 6 sts for row, measurement 15(17,5) cm, cast off from edge on WS 1 sts 6 times on each row. Assembly: Leave front and back piece flat shoulder to shoulder. Lie sleeve flat and sew on 5 cm wide border onto front and back pieces, ensure the seam is even! Sew side and sleeve seams. Pick up approx 160 sts on needle size 2.5 mm evenly around neckline - 60 sts on each side of v-neck and 40sts around back of neck. Knit 13 rows (approx 5 cm) rib -K1 into back of sts, P1. At the same time cast off mid front as follows on each row: Knit until middle 3 sts – K middle sts. Slip middle sts onto cable needle and K 1st and 3rd tog. Pass middle sts over 2 sts knit tog. Cast off after 13 rounds – approx 5 cm. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (15)
Detta svaret hade jag inte tänkt mig känner mig lurad av ett mönster som inte fungerar. Hur kan ni ha ett mönster som är till xxxs när det ska vara till en large. Har köpt garn till detta känner mig väldigt besviken. 😢 😞
29.04.2024 - 16:07Hej! Jag ska sticka mönster W-014 medium-large ska lägga upp 72 maskor med det blir en tröja i extra smal. Den ser ju stor ut på bilden. Vad gör jag nu🥴🤔 MVH/ Inger Englund
27.04.2024 - 17:52DROPS Design answered:
Hei Inger. Dette er en retro oppskrift (fra -80 tallet). Her var designet gjerne med en smal / trang vrangbord og en mye større hoveddel. I denne oppskriften legger man opp 72 masker i str. M/L (kun forstykket) på pinne 2,5 og når vrangborden er ferdig strikket bytter man til pinne 4 og strikker patent (patent blir veldig tøyelig). Sjekk strikkefastheten og blir den fulgt skal du ha de målene du ser på målskissen. mvh DROPS Design
29.04.2024 - 10:34Jag tänkte sticka drops W—014 försöker beställa garn natuvit uni color 17 det verkar som att jag inte kan beställ detta.\\r\\nMVH/ Inger
07.04.2024 - 20:58DROPS Design answered:
Hej Inger, når du klikker på beställ - Paris uni colour - kommer du in på LindeHobby. Här är det bara att välja färg i DROPS Paris som du lægger i varukorgen :)
09.04.2024 - 11:12Hallo Ik had 14 bolletjes van 50mgram .700 gram zoals vermeld. Maar dat is te weinig ,dus nu bij bestellen extra verzendkosten. Wees alles en doe maar 800 gram
03.04.2024 - 09:55In vervolg op mijn vraag (zie boven), dikkere naalden gebruiken is geen optie, want dan wordt het werk te grof! Alvast bedankt !
16.11.2022 - 09:37Bij het garen wat ik gebruik (drops Paris cotton) voor het patroon Drops 6-4, kom ik bij de proef lapjes in de breedte steeds 2,5 cm (is 5 a 6 steken) tekort. Hoe los ik dat op? Kan dat door naar verhouding meer steken op te zetten, of klopt het patroon dan niet meer? Ik wil overigens de halve patentsteek gebruiken i.p.v. de Engelse….
15.11.2022 - 11:21DROPS Design answered:
Dag Franka,
Je kan ook een grotere naald gebruiken. Het belangrijkst is dat de stekenverhouding in de breedte klopt. In de hoogte kun je namelijk de centimeters aanhouden.
16.11.2022 - 16:38Per quando riguardo la manica del maglione modello Paris Drops 6-4 non sono riuscita a fare 13 volte gli aumenti per parte ai lati della manica bensì 11 volte perché sono arrivata prima che le maglie erano 68 altrimenti continuando a 13 volte sarebbero aumentate adesso non mi è chiaro come intrecciare alla fine se devono rimanere solo 6 maglie centrali sto avendo un sacco di difficoltà su questo modello sperando di concluderlo al più presto
18.10.2022 - 00:49DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Rosanna, partendo da 42 maglie e aumentando 1 maglia per lato 13 volte per un totale di 26 maglie aumentate si arriva a 68 maglie. Alla fine della manica deve proseguire sulle 6 maglie indicate. Buon lavoro!
18.10.2022 - 08:02Per quando riguarda la manica non mi è chiaro dopo aver eseguitoil bordo a coste 1/ 1 per 7 cm fare 14 aumenti al primo ferro a coste inglesi ( come fare gli aumenti ? )se esiste un video grazie!
10.10.2022 - 23:16DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Rosanna, non ci sono indicazioni particolari per questi aumenti. Buon lavoro!
13.10.2022 - 22:42Nella parte CONFEZIONE come svolgere il punto "Alli stesso tempo intrecciare le maglie al centro davanti su ogni ferro: lavorare fino alle 3 maglie centrali - lavorare a diritto le maglie centrali. Trasferire le maglie centrali su un ferro ausiliario e lavorare la prima e la terza maglia insieme a diritto. Accavallare le maglie centrali sulle 2 maglie lavorate insieme. Intrecciare dopo 13 giri - circa 5 cm".
28.09.2022 - 11:21DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Rosanna, abbiamo leggermente modificato il testo per renderlo più comprensibile: in quel punto deve proseguire intrecciando la maglia centrale come indicato. Buon lavoro!
01.10.2022 - 22:22Hi, for the SLEEVE how would you add 14 stitched while using an English knit? How would this be knitted on the next round? Thanks!
25.03.2022 - 13:10DROPS Design answered:
Dear Kristina, you increase 14 stitches on a round making 14 yarn overs (or increase 14 sts with your favorite technique) evenly spaced on first round of the English rib. Read more how to increase evenly here. Happy knitting!
25.03.2022 - 15:46