DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 77% Alpaca, 23% Silk |
6.00 BGN /25g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to HOBIYARN website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 77% Alpaca, 23% Silk 6.00 BGN /25g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to HOBIYARN website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Mardi Gras Jacket |
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Knitted jacket with balloon sleeves, V-neck and stripes in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Sizes: S-XXXL
DROPS 201-21 |
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------------------------------------------------------ EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- MOSS STITCH (worked in the round): Round 1: * Knit 1, purl 1*, repeat from *-*. Round 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit. Repeat round 2 onwards. MOSS STITCH (worked back and forth): Row 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-*. Row 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit. Repeat row 2 onwards. STRIPES BODY: Work 12-12.5-13-13,5-13.5-14 cm light grey green, 12-12.5-13-13-14-14.5 cm off-white, 12-12.5-13-13,5-13.5-14 cm powder pink and then finish with denim blue = 12-12.5-13-13-14-14.5 cm. STRIPES SLEEVES: Work 4.5 cm off-white, 3 cm curry, 4.5 cm off-white, 3 cm curry, 4.5 cm off-white and 3 cm curry. BANDS ON FRONT PIECES: The outermost 6 stitches towards mid front = bands. Work as follows: Knit the 5 outermost stitches towards mid front on all rows and the 6th stitch is worked in stocking stitch seen from the right side. DECREASE TIP-1: Decrease only from the right side, inside the bands towards mid front as follows: Knit 5, slip the next stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased). DECREASE TIP-2: Decrease only from the right side, inside the bands towards mid front as follows: Work moss stitch until there are 7 stitches left on row. Decrease 1 stitch by knitting together the 7th and 6th stitch. Knit the remaining 5 stitches. DECREASE TIP-3: Knit together the 3 middle stitches under the sleeve (= 2 stitches decreased). INCREASE TIP-1: Work 2 stitches in 1 stitch as follows: Work 1 stitch but do not slip this stitch off the left needle, work 1 more stitch in same stitch - working in the back loop this time = 1 stitch increased. INCREASE TIP-2: (evenly spaced at bottom of sleeve): To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 44 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 20) = 2.2. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 2nd stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs to leave a small hole. BUTTONHOLES (bottom up): Work buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = Cast off the 3rd and 4th stitch from the edge. On the next row cast on 2 new stitches over the cast-off stitches. Work buttonholes when the piece measures approx.: S: 1, 10, 19 and 28 cm M: 1.5, 10.5, 19.5 and 28.5 cm L: 1, 10.5, 20 and 29.5 cm XL: 1, 11, 21 and 31 cm XXL: 1, 11, 21 and 31 cm XXXL: 1.5, 11.5, 21.5 and 31.5 cm CASTING-OFF TIP: To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle; or make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as casting off( yarn overs cast off as normal stitches). ------------------------------------------------------ START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: Front and back pieces are worked separately, back and forth with circular needle and bottom up. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles or short circular needle, bottom up. BACK PIECE: Cast on 66-72-78-86-94-104 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and curry. Work rib ( = knit 1, purl 1) for 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm. Change to circular needle size 6 mm and light grey green and continue with MOSS STITCH – read description above – AT THE SAME TIME as you work STRIPES BODY – read description above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm increase 1 stitch on each side for sleeve-seams – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 68-74-80-88-96-106 stitches. When the piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm work garter stitch over the middle 38-38-40-40-42-42 stitches; the remaining stitches are continued in moss stitch as before. When the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm cast off the middle 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches and each shoulder is finished separately = 21-24-26-30-33-38 stitches on each shoulder. Continue with garter stitch over the outermost 6 stitches towards the neck and moss stitch over the other stitches. When the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CASTING-OFF TIP above. Work the other shoulder in the same way. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: When working the right front piece you also work buttonholes on the band – read description above. Cast on 39-42-45-49-53-58 stitches (including 6 band stitches) with circular needle size 4 mm and curry. Work rib (= knit 1, purl 1) for 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm at the same time as you work BANDS – read description above. After the rib is finished, change to circular needle size 6 mm, light grey green and work MOSS STITCH, STRIPES BODY and BANDS onwards. When the piece measures 28-29-30-31-31-32 cm start to decrease to V-neck: Decrease 1 stitch every 1 cm a total of 19-19-20-20-21-21 times - read DECREASE TIP-1 = 20-23-25-29-32-37 stitches on needle - AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm increase 1 stitch for the sleeve-seam, outermost towards the armhole - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 21-24-26-30-33-38 stitches. When the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CASTING-OFF TIP above. LEFT FRONT PIECE Work as for right front piece, but without buttonholes and with the band at the other end of the row. At V-neck, read DECREASE TIP-2. SLEEVE: Cast on 36-38-40-42-44-46 stitches with double pointed needles size 4 mm and curry. Work rib ( = knit 1, purl 1) for 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 6 mm and off-white and knit 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 24-22-22-22-20-20 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 60-60-62-64-64-66 stitches. Continue with MOSS STITCH and STRIPES SLEEVES – read description above. When STRIPES SLEEVES are finished continue with off-white to finished length. When the piece measures 25-25-25-25-25-25 cm decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-3, repeat this decrease every 4-6-5-5-0-0 cm a total of 4-3-2-2-0-0 times = 52-54-58-60-64-66 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 52-52-51-49-47-45 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to broader shoulders) and then loosely cast off the remaining stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CASTING-OFF TIP. Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY Sew the pieces together in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seams are flat - the bands on each front piece are sewn to the garter stitch along the neck on the back piece. Sew sleeves to body inside the 1 edge stitch on the front and back pieces. Sew buttons onto left band. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (22)
Pernille wrote:
Hvor meget garn går der til str m i ensfarvet garn?
15.04.2024 - 14:01DROPS Design answered:
Hei Pernille. Det har vi dessverre ikke oversikten over. Men sammelign jakken med lignende ensfarget akker i Brushed Alpaca Silk, så får du en ca garnmengde. mvh DROPS Design
15.04.2024 - 14:36Svetla wrote:
Hello! Thank you for this nice pattern! I am using Drops brushed alpaca silk. My gauge swatch with this yarn, 6mm needle, moss stitch 15st x 24rows is 10cm x 9cm (but in case I knit very loosely). If I cast-on 66st (very loosely) for size S (my size), back piece with 4cm needle rib 1x1, the length is 31cm. If I cast-on 66st with 6cm needle, the length is 34cm. If I cast-on 78st with 6cm needle, the length is 42cm. I am confused whether I make a mistake and which size should I knit. Thank you!:)
29.01.2024 - 18:05DROPS Design answered:
Dear Svetla, don't work too loosely; the correct width is more important than the correct length in the gauge. So work with exactly the same gauge as the one in the swatch and it should be the correct cm for your size. You need to cast on with the 4mm needle, for the rib. This is tighter than the calculated gauge but it will start to stretch once you finish the rib and change needle size so you don't need to worry about it. Then continue with the 6mm needle, with the same gauge as in the swatch and following the instructions for your size (S). Happy knitting!
29.01.2024 - 23:24Esmée wrote:
Dag, als ik dit vest in één kleur wil breien, hoeveel garen zou ik dan ongeveer nodig hebben?
31.12.2023 - 11:27Ann wrote:
Pattern says 'cast on ... stitches with circular needle size ... and curry. What does 'curry' mean? Thank you.
05.02.2023 - 03:26DROPS Design answered:
Dear Ann, "curry" is the color used for casting on (colour 19). Happy knitting!
05.02.2023 - 23:30Katelijne wrote:
Hoe brei ik de mouwen aan het lijf? Met welke steek? Hebben daar een filmpje van want dit moet met 2 kleuren , blauw aan wit ! Ik probeerde het maar je zag steeds heel goed het kleur in het andere werk . Dank je
08.11.2022 - 19:39DROPS Design answered:
Dag Katelijne,
In een van de video's die bij het patroon staan wordt uitgelegd hoe je een mouw innaait in een trui met tricotsteek. Deze techniek kun je ook gebruiken voor dit patroon.
10.11.2022 - 17:22Van Cauwenberghe Katelijne wrote:
Brei ik deze trui met enkele draad ?
19.10.2022 - 16:43DROPS Design answered:
Dag Katelijne,
Ja, als je Brushed Alpaca Silk gekozen hebt brei je met een enkele draad. (Als je als vervangend garen een garen uit categorie A hebt gekozen, dan brei je met een dubbele draad.)
19.10.2022 - 19:52Roksana wrote:
Nie rozumiem ostatniego etapu tyłu. Po zamknięciu środkowych 26 oczek, w jakiś sposób mam przerabiać dalej normalnie pozostałe oczka? Powstanie wtedy wielka dziura. Nie mogłam znaleźć żadnego wideo z instrukcjami.
09.03.2022 - 18:39DROPS Design answered:
Witaj Roksano, jak zamkniesz oczka środkowe, dalej przerabiaj oczka lewego ramienia do podanej wysokości. Zakończ i odetnij nitkę. Dołącz nitkę na prawe ramię na lewej stronie robótki od strony dekoltu i wykonaj prawe ramię tak samo jak lewe. Pozdrawiamy!
10.03.2022 - 09:01VU wrote:
Je souhaiterais faire ce gilet en une seule couleur. Pourriez-vous m’indiquer combien de pelotes faudra-t-il que j’achète. Merci pour votre aide.
26.11.2021 - 14:59DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Vu, malheureusement, nous avons seulement la quantité indiquée, c'est-à-dire avec les rayures, et nous n'avons plus le gilet pour vérifier. Vous pouvez additionner les couleurs, vous aurez fort probablement besoin de moins, votre magasin DROPS saura vous aider, même par mail ou téléphone, n'hésitez pas à le contacter. Bon tricot!
26.11.2021 - 15:56Fouillet wrote:
Bonjour, Puis je travailler ce modèle avec des aiguilles droites ? En vous remerciant Bien cdt Aurore Fouillet
15.10.2021 - 15:18DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Fouillet, tout à fait, vous trouverez dans cette leçon quelques astuces pour les manches. Bon tricot!
15.10.2021 - 16:18Line Souline Elvien wrote:
I str XL står der striberne på kroppen skal være 12 cm, men det giver ikke logisk mening, da det er kortere end størrelse L. Hvor mange cm skal striberne være?
12.05.2021 - 15:02DROPS Design answered:
Hej Line, så er striberne i XL rettet. Tak for info :)
14.05.2021 - 09:05