Fjord Mosaic |
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Knitted jumper and hat in DROPS Lima. Jumper is knitted top down with double neck edge, raglan and Nordic pattern. Hat is knitted with Nordic pattern. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS 216-28 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- PATTERN: Jumper: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1). Hat: See diagram A.3. Work the entire pattern in stocking stitch. INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly): To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 92 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 20) = 4.6. In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 4th and 5th stitch. On next round knit yarns over twisted to avoid holes. If decreasing knit in this example approx. every 3rd and 4th stitch and every 4th and 5th stitch together. KNITTING TIP: To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern with several colours, it is important not to tighten the strands on back of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight. RAGLAN: Increase for raglan by increasing 1 stitch on each side of the 4 stitches with markers - in every transition between front/back piece and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on round). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over with pearl grey. On next round knit yarn over twisted with pearl grey to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in A.1 and A.2. STRIPES-1 (applies to rib at the bottom of body and sleeves): 3 rounds pearl grey, 2 rounds grey blue, 2 rounds pearl grey, 2 rounds grey blue, 4 rounds pearl grey, 2 rounds grey blue. STRIPES-2 (applies to rib at the bottom of hat): 4 rounds pearl grey, 2 rounds grey blue, 2 rounds pearl grey, 2 rounds grey blue. DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to mid under sleeves): Decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, marker thread, knit 2 twisted together (= 2 stitches decreased). DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to top of hat): Decrease 1 stitch after every marker thread as follows: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased = 8 stitches decreased in total on round). CAST-OFF TIP: To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 6th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches). ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: Double neck edge and yoke are worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down. DOUBLE NECK EDGE: Cast on 92-96-100-108-112-116 stitches on a short circular needle size 4.5 mm with grey blue. Switch to a short circular needle size 3.5 mm, and work rib in the round (= knit 1/purl 1). When 16 rounds rib have been worked with grey blue, work 2 rounds rib with pearl grey, 2 rounds rib with grey blue, and 4 rounds rib with pearl grey. Neck edge now measures approx. 8 cm. Knit 1 round with pearl grey while increasing 20-16-12-36-48-44 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 112-112-112-144-160-160 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Insert a marker at the beginning of round = right shoulder at the back when garment is worn. YOKE: Insert 4 markers in piece as explained below - insert markers without working them, and use markers when increasing for raglan: Count 11-11-11-19-19-19 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next stitch (= raglan stitch), count 43-43-43-51-59-59 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker in next stitch, count 11-11-11-19-19-19 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next stitch, count 43-43-43-51-59-59 stitches (= back piece), insert 1 marker in last stitch. On next round begin pattern - AT THE SAME TIME increase for RAGLAN - read explanation above, i.e. work first round as follows: Increase 1 stitch for raglan, work A.1 (= 11-11-11-19-19-19 stitches), increase for raglan on each side of stitch with marker (always work raglan stitch with pearl grey), work A.2A (= 9 stitches), work A.2B over the next 24-24-24-32-40-40 stitches (= 3-3-3-4-5-5 repetitions of 8 stitches), work A.2C (= 10 stitches), increase for raglan on each side of raglan stitch, work A.1 (= 11-11-11-19-19-19 stitches), increase for raglan on each side of raglan stitch, work A.2A (= 9 stitches), work A.2B over the next 24-24-24-32-40-40 stitches), work A.2C (= 10 stitches), and increase for raglan before the last raglan stitches (= 8 stitches increased on round), work the last raglan stitch. Read KNITTING TIP and continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! AT THE SAME TIME increase for raglan every other round 24-28-32-28-32-36 times in total. After last increase for raglan there are 304-336-368-368-416-448 stitches on needle. Continue pattern without increasing until yoke measures 21-23-25-25-27-29 cm from under neck edge mid front (measured from transition between double neck edge and yoke), and finish round after 4th raglan stitch. On next round divide yoke for body and sleeves, i.e. work next round as follows: Slip the first 60-68-76-76-84-92 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, (= stitches from sleeve + 1 raglan sleeve), cast on 4-4-4-12-12-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) work as before over the next 92-100-108-108-124-132 stitches (= front piece - these stitches are stitches from front piece + 1 raglan stitch), slip the next 60-68-76-76-84-92 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve (= stitches from sleeve + 1 raglan stitch), cast on 4-4-4-12-12-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), and work as before over the next 92-100-108-108-124-132 stitches (= back piece - these stitches are stitches from back piece + 1 raglan stitch). Cut the yarn. Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! BODY: = 192-208-224-240-272-288 stitches. Begin round in the middle of the 4-4-4-12-12-12 stitches cast on under sleeve in one side of piece, and continue pattern in the round – i.e. repeat A.2B but make sure to begin on correct round in A.2B according to last round on yoke (= 24-26-28-30-34-36 repetitions of 8 stitches). Work until piece measures approx. 27 cm from division, but finish pattern after one whole or half repetition vertically. Approx. 5 cm remain until finished measurements, try the jumper on and work until desired length. Knit 1 round with pearl grey while increasing 40-44-48-50-58-60 stitches evenly - remember INCREASE TIP = 232-252-272-290-330-348 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work rib in the round (knit 1/purl 1) in STRIPES-1 - read explanation above. When stripes has been worked, rib measures approx. 5 cm. Cast off with grey blue and knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP! Jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder and down. SLEEVE: Slip the 60-68-76-76-84-92 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 4.5 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 4-4-4-12-12-12 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 64-72-80-88-96-104 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 4-4-4-12-12-12 stitches under sleeve. Move the marker thread upwards when working; it should be used for decrease mid under sleeve. Begin round at the marker thread and continue pattern in the round - i.e. repeat A.2B but make sure that pattern fits nicely over stitches on yoke and to begin on correct round in A.2B according to last round on yoke. When sleeve measures 2-2-2-3-3-3 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 9-4-2½-2-1½-1 cm 4-8-12-12-16-20 times in total = 56-56-56-64-64-64 stitches. Work until sleeve measures approx. 36-35-33-34-33-31 cm from division. Approx. 5 cm remains until finished measurements. Try the jumper on and work to desired length, but finish pattern after one whole or half repetition vertically. NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke. Knit 1 round with pearl grey while decreasing 6-4-4-10-10-8 stitches evenly = 50-52-52-54-54-56 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Work rib in the round (knit 1/purl 1) in STRIPES-1 the same way as on body. When stripes has been worked, rib measures approx. 5 cm. Cast off with grey blue and knit over knit and purl over purl - remember CAST-OFF TIP. Work the other sleeve the same way. ASSEMBLY: Fold rib in the neck double in towards wrong side of piece. Fasten rib but to avoid a tight neck edge and avoiding the edge to tip outwards, it is important to make the seam elastic. ------------------------------------------------------ HAT - SHORT SUMMARY OF GARMENT: Worked in the round on a short circular needle, bottom up. Switch to double pointed needles when needed. HAT: Cast on 120-124-128 stitches on a short circular needle size 3 mm with blue grey. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1/purl 1) in STRIPES-2 - read explanation above. When stripes have been worked, switch to pearl grey. Knit 1 round while at the same time decrease 16-20-16 stitches evenly- read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 104-104-112 stitches. Switch to a short circular needle size 3.5 mm and knit 1 round with pearl grey. Then work A.3 in the round (= 13-13-14 repetitions of 8 stitches). Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION. When A.3 has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 15 cm from cast-on edge. Work in stocking stitch with pearl grey until piece measures 19-20-20 cm from cast-on edge. Insert 8 markers in piece 13-13-14 stitches apart. On next round, decrease 1 stitch at every marker – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every other round 11-11-12 times in total = 16 stitches remain in all sizes. Knit 1 round where all stitches are knitted together 2 by 2 = 8 stitches remain in all sizes. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten. Hat measures approx. 26-27-28 cm from top and down. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
Comments / Questions (91)
Hawk wrote:
Hi sorry, I still don't understand how to work on the body. 1. Why do I need to cut the yarn if I continue the same colors here, and can just avoid the sleeves? 2. What does starting the round "in the middle of 4 new stitches" mean? Do I skip the first 2 stitches? Thanks!
22.06.2022 - 16:53DROPS Design answered:
Dear Hawk, you need to cut the yarn because you need to displace the start of the round. You finish working the yoke in the right shoulder at the back (start and end of the round). You need to start working the body in the third stitch of the 4 stitches cast on under the arm. We cut the yarn so that we don't have a thread hanging, from the end of the previous round to the stitch where we start working now. Also, yes, you skip the first 2 stitches cast on under the arm. Happy knitting!
22.06.2022 - 19:02Hawk wrote:
Hi, I'm just about to start working on the body, and the instructions say "Begin round in the middle of the 4 stitches cast on under sleeve in one side of piece, and continue pattern in the round". What does it mean in the middle of the 4 stitches? Also, will the entire body be worked in on A2B pattern only? Thanks so much!
22.06.2022 - 05:29DROPS Design answered:
Dear Hawk, after you have divided yoke for body and sleeve (slipping sleeves on a thread and casting on 4 new sts under each sleeve), you cut the yarn and now start the new round in the middle of the 4 new stitches cast on on one side. And now you work only A.2B in the round, just make sure to work the appropriate row following yoke. Happy knitting!
22.06.2022 - 08:25Hawk wrote:
Hi, my yoke is now 23 cm. For the next steps, I'm a bit confused: it says to cast on new stitches on needle - which needle? new one? and also additional stitches? and then work as before over the next x stitches - how does that work? any video on this? thanks!
19.06.2022 - 21:06DROPS Design answered:
Dear Hawk, at the beginning of this row will you slip stitches on a thread for the first sleeve, then you need to cast on stitches for under sleeve/side - and repeat for the 2nd sleeve. This lesson shows how to work a jumper top down and from picture 9 how you will divide yoke slipping sts for sleeves on a thread and casting on new stitches for under sleeve. Happy knitting!
20.06.2022 - 07:57Hawk wrote:
Hi, for the yoke instructions, after I finished 28 rows with raglan, it says: "Continue pattern without increasing until yoke measures 21-23-25-25-27-29 cm = 8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8" from under neck edge mid front (measured from transition between double neck edge and yoke), and finish round after 4th raglan stitch." I'm not quite sure how I to continue the pattern without increasing, if the pattern includes increases. Also, for how many rows?
16.06.2022 - 04:00DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Hawk, if your work doesn't measure the right measurement for your size, just continue working as before (to help you, you can draw a straight line in A.2A and A.2C before your first stitch on the needle and after the last stitch so that you know where you have to continue from in A.2A and to which stitch in A.2C. The number of rows depends on your own tension. Happy knitting!
16.06.2022 - 09:50Bob wrote:
I've almost completed this pattern. I cast on provisionally at the start of the yoke colourwork, to decide later on my neck treatment. Today, with the garment completed apart from the neck, I checked to see how many short rows (your "elevation") were suggested. There is now no mention of "elevation" at all and no short row instructions: the pattern seems to have been changed. On 22.10.2020 at 20:19 Jo (UK) posted a question so I know it was there. Please advise.
07.06.2022 - 14:59DROPS Design answered:
Dear Bob, correct, we had to remove the elevation since it didn't work fine with the pattern. Happy knitting!
07.06.2022 - 16:52Bodil Liland wrote:
Har strikket ca halve genseren, og merker raskt at manglende utringning i halsen gjør modellen både ubekvem og lite pen foran v.brystet. Det ses jo også på bildet øverst i oppskriften at det legger seg en fold foran. Så skuffende, at det ikke er lagt opp til forhøyning (bak) men det kommer vel av at det er mønsterstikk fra halskant og videre. Bare å rekke opp og glemme :-//
06.06.2022 - 09:18DROPS Design answered:
Hej Bodil, Det stemmer, vi har ikke forhøjning i denne opskrift. Du kan evt strikke en ensfarvet forhøjning bagpå, vi har mange opskrifter som forklarer hvordan man gør. God fornøjelse!
08.06.2022 - 07:56Hawk wrote:
Hi, still unclear how to properly complete round 17. I followed your kind instructions per this: A2A, A2B (1 repetition), A2C, A2A, A2B (1 repetition), A2B (3 repetitions), A2B (1 repetition), A2C, A2A, A2B (1 repetition), A2C, A2A, A2B (1 repetition), A2B (3 repetitions), A2B (1 repetition), A2C. But it still doesn't add up, I end up having 9 extra stitches. Did I do smth wrong? Thanks in advance.
26.05.2022 - 00:29DROPS Design answered:
Dear Hawk, over A.1 you will work: (A.2A, A2B, A.2C) and over each A.2 you will work: A.2A, 2 more repeats A.2B, A.2C, and the raglan lines are worked as before. Your number of sts should match if you increased on every other round. Try to add markers between each repeat can help. Happy knitting!
27.05.2022 - 08:59Hawk wrote:
Hi, I've finished the first 16 rows of the pattern. I've read your explanations to others how to continue, but still don't understand how it works, sorry :( I do 1 raglan + 11 stitches of A1 +raglan + 9 stitches of A2A and so on from the bottom up? But it wouldn't add up to the many stitches I've knitted up to round 16. Could you list out exactly how many stitches for each diagram section for round 17 and upwards please?
23.05.2022 - 04:16DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Hawk, work the raglan stitches and increase for raglan as before, then over A.1 work: A.2A (= 9 sts), A.2B (= 8 sts) A.2C (= 10 sts) (so that you get 9+8+10=27 sts as on the last row in A.1); then over A.2 work: A.2A + A.2B over the previous A2.A, then work A.2B as before, and work A.2B + A.2C over previous A.2C. Happy knitting!
23.05.2022 - 08:51Hawk wrote:
Hi, thanks so much for your previous response! Another question: at the end of the double neck edge, I have 112 stitches. When I add 8 for raglan, I end up with 120 in the first round of the pattern. However, the following round following the pattern doesn’t add up to 120 (the pattern round ends up being less than the number of stitches). I have recounted this several times. What am I doing wrong? Thanks!
18.05.2022 - 04:12DROPS Design answered:
Dear Hawk, after first increase, work 2nd row in diagrams: A.1 (= over the yarn over + the next 11 sts + the yarn over = 13 sts), work the raglan stitch, A.2A (= 1 yarn over + 9 = 10 sts), A.2B, A.2C (= 10 sts + 1 yarn over = 11 sts), the raglan stitch, A.1 (= over the yarn over + the next 11 sts + the yarn over = 13 sts), work the raglan stitch, A.2A (= 1 yarn over + 9 = 10 sts), A.2B, A.2C (= 10 sts + 1 yarn over = 11 sts), the raglan stitch = 13+1+10+24+11+1+13+1+10+24+11+1=120 sts. Happy knitting!
18.05.2022 - 08:22Hawk wrote:
Hi, I'm new to knitting. For the yoke instructions, I'm not clear on the following part: "Increase 1 stitch for raglan, work A.1, etc." At the beginning it says to increase 1 stitch for raglan. So in this 1st round of the pattern, there will be a total of 9 additional stitches, not 8 right? Because it's saying to increase by 1 stitch at the very beginning (yarn over). Am I understanding this right? And then I'll add 8 for the markers for raglan. Please help! :)
17.05.2022 - 02:40DROPS Design answered:
Dear Hawk, you should increase 8 sts for the raglan: Increase 1 stitch, work A.1, increase for raglan on each side of stitch with marker (= 2 sts in total, work A.2A, A.2B and A.2C, increase for raglan on each side of raglan stitch (= 2 sts in total), A.1, increase for raglan on each side of raglan stitch, work A.2A, A.2B and A.2C, increase for raglan before the last raglan stitches (=1 stitch) = you have increased: 1+2+2+2+1=8 sts in total. Hope it can help, happy knitting!
17.05.2022 - 09:10