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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 77% Alpaca, 23% Silk |
3.10 € /25g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Trgovinca iNCA website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 77% Alpaca, 23% Silk 3.10 € /25g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Trgovinca iNCA website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
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= knit |
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= purl |
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= place 4 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, slip the 2 purled stitches from cable needle onto the left needle and purl these 2 stitches, and knit the 2 knitted stitches from cable needle |
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= place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, slip the 2 purled stitches from cable needle onto the left needle and purl these 2 stitches, and knit the 2 knitted stitches from cable needle |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
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Knitted jumper in DROPS Air and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked bottom up with raglan, cables and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 248-3 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- KNITTING TIP: If your knitting tension is too tight vertically the armholes will be too small – this can be adjusted for, if necessary, by working more rounds between the decreases. RAGLAN Decrease as follows before and after the marker-threads: DECREASE AFTER MARKER-THREAD: Slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased). DECREASE BEFORE MARKER-THREAD : Knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased). INCREASE TIP (for sleeves): Increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread: Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker-thread, 1 yarn over, knit/purl 2 as before (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches into the rib (it is important to match the rib already worked on each side of A.1, A.2 and A.3, not towards mid-under sleeve). ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary. The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up as far as the armholes. The sleeves are worked in the round, bottom up as far as the armholes. The body and sleeves are placed on the same circular needle and the yoke continued in the round while decreasing for raglan. The neck is worked to finish, folded double and sewn down to the inside. If there is a «0» in your chosen size, skip the information and go straight to the next instruction. BODY: Cast on 160-176-208-208-224-256 stitches with circular needle size 6 mm, 1 strand DROPS Air and 1 strand DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 2 strands). Work rib in the round as follows: Purl 1, rib (knit 2, purl 2) until there is 1 stitch left, purl 1. Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round and 1 marker-thread after 80-88-104-104-112-128 stitches, inserting the threads between 2 purled stitches. Work the rib for 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm. Change to circular needle size 8 mm and work as follows over the front piece: * Purl 1, rib (knit 2, purl 2) over the next 0-4-4-4-8-8 stitches, A.1, A.2 over the next 24-24-32-32-32-40 stitches, A.3, purl 2 (= mid-front), A.4, A.5 over the next 24-24-32-32-32-40 stitches, A.6, rib (knit 2, purl 2) over the next 0-4-4-4-8-8 stitches, purl 1 *, marker-thread is here, work from *-* 1 more time over the back piece. Continue this pattern onwards. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work until the body measures approx. 36-36-37-38-38-38 cm – note which round in the pattern was worked on the last row. DIVIDE FOR ARMHOLES: On the next round divide for the front and back pieces as follows: Cast off the first 4-4-5-5-7-7 stitches for the armhole, work 72-80-94-94-98-114 stitches as before, cast off 8-8-10-10-14-14 stitches for the armhole, work 72-80-94-94-98-114 stitches as before and cast off the last 4-4-5-5-7-7 stitches. Cut the strand, lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves. SLEEVES: Cast on 48-48-52-52-56-56 stitches with double pointed needles size 6 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm. Insert 1 marker-thread between the first 2 purled stitches in sizes S, M, XXL and XXXL, and between the first 2 knitted stitches in sizes L and XL – the round starts here. Allow the marker-thread to follow your work onwards; it is used when increasing under the sleeve. Change to double pointed needles size 8 mm and work pattern as follows: Rib as before over the first 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches, A.1, A.2 over the next 24 stitches, A.3, rib as before over the last 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches. Continue this pattern. When the sleeve measures 10-10-11-12-12-12 cm from the cast-on edge, increase 2 stitches under the sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 4-2½-3-2-2-1½ cm a total of 8-12-10-14-12-16 times = 64-72-72-80-80-88 stitches. Work until the sleeve measures approx. 45-44-44-44-41-40 cm – adjust to finish on the same round as for body. Cast off the middle 8-8-10-10-10-10 stitches under the sleeve (4-4-5-5-5-5 stitches on each side of the marker-thread) = 56-64-62-70-70-78 stitches. Work the other sleeve in the same way. YOKE: Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body, where stitches were cast off for the armholes = 256-288-312-328-336-384 stitches. Insert 1 marker-thread in each transition between the body and sleeves (= 4 marker-threads, each one inserted between 2 stitches). Start the round at the marker thread before back piece. Continue the pattern in the round. When the yoke measures 1 cm from the division, begin to decrease for raglan at each marker-thread - the decreases are different on the front/back pieces and the sleeves – read RAGLAN-DECREASES ON FRONT/BACK PIECES and RAGLAN-DECREASES ON SLEEVES before continuing. RAGLAN-DECREASES ON FRONT/BACK PIECES: Read RAGLAN and KNITTING TIP above. Decrease a total of 22-26-33-33-31-39 times on each side of the front and back pieces as follows: DECREASE 1: Every 2nd round 7-6-0-2-7-2 times. DECREASE 2: Every round 15-20-33-31-24-37 times. RAGLAN-DECREASES ON SLEEVES: Read RAGLAN and KNITTING TIP above. Decrease a total of 22-26-25-29-29-33 times on each side of the sleeves as follows: DECREASE 1: Every 2nd round 7-6-8-6-9-8 times. DECREASE 2: Every round 15-20-17-23-20-25 times. AFTER LAST DECREASE: After the last decrease there are 80-80-80-80-96-96 stitches. The yoke measures approx. 20-22-23-24-26-28 cm from the join and the jumper measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from the shoulder. There are 28-28-28-28-36-36 stitches between the marker-threads on the front/back pieces and 12 stitches between the marker-threads on the sleeves. NECK: = 80-80-80-80-96-96 stitches. Change to circular needle size 6 mm. Start from the marker-thread before the back piece: * Knit 1, rib (knit 2, purl 2) – the rib should match the pattern on the front/back pieces, knit 1 before the next marker-thread. Over the 12 sleeve-stitches, work as follows from the marker-thread: Knit 1, purl 2 together two times, knit 2, purl 2 together two times, knit 1 (= 4 stitches decreased, 8 stitches left on sleeve) *, work from *-* 1 more time = 72-72-72-72-88-88 stitches; there is now a regular rib (knit 2, purl 2) all the way round. Continue the rib for 13-13-13-15-15-15 cm. Cast off a little loosely and fold the neck double to the wrong side. Sew down – making sure the seam is elastic to avoid the neck being tight. The neck measures approx. 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm when folded. ASSEMBLY: Sew together the 8-8-10-10-10-10 cast-off stitches on the sleeves and the 8-8-10-10-14-14 cast-off stitches on the body. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (77)
Hej Ex. A4,A5,A6. Dert ser det ut som att det är 6 räta på rad. Då stickar man två räta på två a viga . I diagrammet står det : sätt 4 maskor på flätsticka framför arbetet, sticka 2 räta, sätt de 2 aviga maskorna från flätstickan tillbaka på vänster sticka och sticka dessa 2 maskor aviga och sticka 2 räta från flätstickan
15.05.2024 - 18:08DROPS Design answered:
Hej Helén, hele mønsteret strikkes 2 räta, 2 aviga, så det stemmer med at det er de 2 aviga du sætter tilbage på vänster sticka :)
17.05.2024 - 13:24Hej Nu funderar jag som Moa. Det är något som inte stämmer med detta mönster.
12.05.2024 - 20:36DROPS Design answered:
Hej Helen, skriv hvad du ikke får til at stemme, så skal vi se på det?
14.05.2024 - 11:23Witam, w którym miejscu rozpocząć schemat A.2 - podano "schemat A.2 ponad 24 następnymi oczkami", sam schemat ma 8 oczek - czy to znaczy, że rozpocząć schemat A.2 w pierwszym oczku z 24 i dalej 16 przerobić na prawo? czy 8 oczek prawych schemat A.2 i 8 prawych?
12.05.2024 - 17:31DROPS Design answered:
Witaj Aniu, to znaczy, że musisz powtórzyć schemat A.2 trzy razy. Jak czytać schematy w robótce na drutach znajdziesz TUTAJ. Pozdrawiamy!
13.05.2024 - 16:37Hej fråga ang ditt svar se nedan: "Det står utmärkt när du har stickat fram till mitten av framstycket och du har då stickat 44 maskor (4+8+24+6+2 m). Mvh DROPS Design" Se att det blir 44 men hur räknas den 1:a aviga maskan efter markeringtråden? Då lär det bli 45 till mitten ?
09.05.2024 - 15:47DROPS Design answered:
Hej Helen, skrive størrelse, hvor mange masker du har og nøjagtig hvor du er i opskriften og hvad du ikke får til, så skal vi prøve at hjælpe dig.
14.05.2024 - 11:42När man ska sticka räta och aviga från flätstickan, så händer det ibland att man förra varvet inte stämmer överrens med nästa i form av typ av maska. T.ex, man börjar med att sticka två aviga maskor räta, och sen vet jag inte om jag ska sticka nästa två räta maskor aviga, eller om jag ska flytta över de aviga maskorna? Men då blir det helt snett. Vet inte hur jag ska förklara... Förstår du mitt problem?
09.05.2024 - 14:47DROPS Design answered:
Hej Moa, hvilket diagram er det som ikke stemmer?
14.05.2024 - 11:21Hej Tack för svar. Men symbolen är i så fall missvisande i förklaring till diagram A1 o A2 o A3 rad 1. Dessa ser inte ut som i förklaringen. Men då stickar jag dessa med flätsticka bakom Toppen att kunna skriva o få svar då jag tar upp stickandet igen efter ca 30 år....
08.05.2024 - 11:31Hej igen symbolen för = sätt 4 maskor på flätsticka bakom arbetet, sticka 2 räta, sätt de 2 aviga maskorna från flätstickan tillbaka på vänster sticka och sticka dessa 2 maskor aviga och sticka 2 räta från flätstickan.Finns inte med i diagramen
07.05.2024 - 12:57DROPS Design answered:
Hej Helén. Den symbolen finns tex på första varvet i diagram A.1, A.2 och A.3. Mvh DROPS Design
08.05.2024 - 10:49Hej, jag har 88 maskor =framstycke. om jag stickar enl beskrivningen startar ska jag sticka mitten vid 29 maskor A3 . Detta kommer inte att bli på mitten?
07.05.2024 - 12:52DROPS Design answered:
Hej Helén. Det står utmärkt när du har stickat fram till mitten av framstycket och du har då stickat 44 maskor (4+8+24+6+2 m). Mvh DROPS Design
08.05.2024 - 10:53Hei. Jeg strikker str L, og har en mistanke om at det er feil i mønsteret her. Kan det stemme at man skal legge opp like mange på L og XL (208 masker). Det blir også feil med 32 masker over A.1,A.2. her skal det vel være 40? Jeg er en erfaren strikker, men her har jeg satt meg helt fast...har rekket opp 3 ganger...og nå lagt denne genseren på vent, da jeg ikke får regnestykket til å gå opp dessverre.
07.05.2024 - 09:19Hej.. Jeg strikker str XL. Jeg har startet mønsteret efter ribben, men har stadig 16 masker tilbage inden jeg når "halvvejsmarkøren" Mønsteret skulle være strikket korrekt, er der fejl i opskriften mon?
03.05.2024 - 14:01DROPS Design answered:
Hej Charlotte, du har 104 m på forstykket: 1 vr, 4m rib (= 2 r / 2 vr), A.1 (8m), A.2 over 32m, A.3 (6m), 2 vrang (= midt foran), A.4 (8m), A.5 over 32 m, A.6 (6m), 4m rib (= 2 vr / 2 r) 1 vr = 104 m og det gentager du bagpå :)
03.05.2024 - 15:12